Tapas

Madrid really is an amazing place. Before I showed up here the first time I wasn't really that excited to go. My graduate work is in 16th century British history and I must have had some leftover Armada thing going on, but I just didn't think that I'd like Spain. It just shows how wrong you can be. I was coming back from Amman, Jordan and this was the connecting option and the price was right so this is why I ended up in Madrid. They say that politics is like making sausage, you don't really want to know how it's done. Putting together the Global Modules network sometimes feels that way. There's lot of time spent researching and planning, and there's also a lot of sheer dumb luck and adapting on the fly. If I know I'm going to fly through some place I'll quickly contact the local universities, test the waters, and then, depending up their response, decide whether or not to extend my stay. I had some real preliminary talks with the University of Alcala, they were positive, so I stretched out my initial stay in Madrid - and seriously began my campaign with the University, which has now borne fruit. It tends to work like that.

So, I decided to give Madrid a try and fell in love with it immediately. For some reason I thought the Spaniards were more dour - again, I think it's that whole English propaganda in painting the Spanish in dark colors. Instead, they are warm and fun-loving people. I know it seems like I romanticize all these other countries, and they are certainly not utopias, but in a lot of ways they simply seem a lot saner than Americans. The Spanish say that they, like the Australian claim, work hard and play hard. Well, I don't know if I've seen the work hard part yet, but they certainly play hard - or at least have a really nice balance between work and play. Yes, they don't work as many hours as Americans do, but they also don't own as much as Americans own or consume as much as Americans consume, and well, they just seem a lot happier to me than Americans do.

Central Madrid is a marvelous place to stay, even if you're stuck at the Hostal Persal. The place is honeycombed with all these fascinating cobblestone alleys heading off in different illogical directions. There must be hundreds of bars and restaurants here. It sort of reminds me of the best of New Orleans - the wonderful spirit, but without the silly, annoying excesses. Madrilenos love the late night so much that they are known as gatos (cats) because they only come out at night. As I've mentioned, dinner doesn't normally start until after 9:00 and going to a club certainly couldn't begin until at least 11:00. This is wonderful, of course, unless you're a 47 year old historian, who is heading back to the hotel as the party is getting started. One of my fondest memories is of watching the Spanish team play a world cup game in a tapas bar - the crowd was insane.

The bars here pride themselves on serving their own unique brand of tapas (hors d'oeuvres). All of them are fantastic and most of them are pretty cheap. A couple tapas makes for a perfectly fine dinner. You can just wander through the streets and find the tapas bar that fits your mood at the moment. Last night I tracked down the first tapas bar that I visited on my earlier trip to Madrid and relived my first tapas experience: one anchovy and two sardines and tomato on bread with olive oil drizzled on top (pictured above). It doesn't sound like much, but it's fantastic. After spending hours online today I was tired and wanted something quiet and quick tonight so I dropped into a little hole in the wall. The tapas were great - marinated salmon with onions and capers on bread, and then some sort of cooked crab dish - a few olives - and a couple beers - a nice meal for about ten euros. To top it off, they were playing country music. On the big screen TV they had on some dedication to Willie Nelson and I got to see him sing a duet with Lucinda Williams on her song Over Time - I'm a nut for Lucinda and that is one of my all-time favorite songs. And then I had the bizarre experience of seeing Willie sing a duet with Keith Richards on We Had It All. I figured that I must have gotten some bad tapas or something. The other thing that makes this like New Orleans is that the competition between the tapas bars is so intense that the food just has to be great or they can't stay in business - one of the few instances of capitalism actually working.