One of my favorite memories of Alexandria was walking out to the far end of the corinche by the Qaitbey Fortress on Friday 4 July. I didn't end up going into the fortress itself because, one, I've seen lots of fortresses, but also, secondly, because as soon as I got there a big busload of Americans came up. Instead, I just sat out on the dock for around an hour and watched the families walking by and especially the fishermen. There was one guy there in a blue policeman-like uniform who was in a constant argument with the fishermen - I suspect he would have had more influence if he had not been in his stocking feet. Later I went over and got an ice cream cone and a bottle of water - the shop-keeper made sure that I got the coldest water possible. A little kid asked me where I was from and seemed generally happy that I was from the US. It's amazing what a few shukrons, salaams and insh'allahs can do to spread good cheer. I just sat there for an hour and no one bothered me and I was quite content - I probaby would have stayed longer except that it was brutally hot (although the breeze helped a lot).
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