Sunday with Salvatore

 When Janet and I thought about moving overseas, part of the dream was finding a great, small local restaurant that we could call our own. We've definitely found it in Assettati. We've only been here around two and a half months, and I think we've already eaten there a dozen times or more. That, alone, should give you a sense of how we feel about the place. The food is dependably wonderful and affordable, but it's also more than that. It just feels like home. Everyone there is friendly and welcoming. We wanted to find that place where we didn't feel like an outsider, but instead a member of the family. A couple of days ago Salvatore told us that due to a strike there were no clams (which led to my spaghetti and sea urchins meal), and he promised to track down some clams for Sunday - and we promised to see him then. Last night it was pretty dreary and drizzly, and it's over a twenty-minute walk down the hill to Assettati, but we were both in agreement: "We promised Salvatore that we'd be there for the clams on Sunday," so it was inconceivable that we wouldn't come. As it turns out, the clams didn't arrive, so Salvatore jumped in his car and somehow tracked some down. The meal was wonderful, and we took advantage of a relatively quiet, rainy Sunday to talk to Salvatore about the secrets to cooking spaghetti and clams, where one finds clams - and the challenges of taking care of them, and the fishing patterns of local fishermen. It was a wonderful evening.

The spaghetti with clams was worth the wait. That's a pretty big serving with a ton of clams, so I don't know if that was a bonus for keeping our word on a rainy Sunday night and showing up - or just for being such loyal customers.

Janet ordered the raviola con ricotta, which was once again great. She was cutting it into with her knife, when Salvatore told her to eat it with her hands. More sage advice.

I didn't get the chance to order dessert, as Salvatore told me I was having the tiramisu. This is fine with me, as I've told him that I've made enough decisions in my life. They served it with espresso on the side, which was a wonderful addition.

Sea Urchins

 If Janet were not the voice of reason in these things, I'd probably eat at Assettati every night. Granted, isn't that the expat dream, to be that character in a W. Sumerset Maugham novel who is always - and mysteriously - lurking in the same restaurant or bar every night? Last night I had it in my head to try their spaghetti and clams, because it's such a staple of the Mediterranean diet and I know that Salvatore and his crew must prepare a killer version. Anyway, I ordered it, and they had to break it to me that the strike (because, well, Italy) meant that there were no clams. I tore back into the menu for another option, when Salvatore asked if I would be interested in trying spaghetti and sea urchins. The answer was obviously yes. I don't even think it was an option on the menu, but it was fantastic.

This picture made me think of how much great food I've eaten here (and some dog meals as well, but certainly not at Assettati), and how I've somehow managed to lose weight. I don't know if I've truly noticed it yet, but Janet assures me that I've lost a goodly amount of weight. That said, most Americans who go to live in Europe end of quite naturally losing weight. Apparently, it's an actual verifiable thing. According to the Interweb, Americans moving to Europe lose weight for at three main reasons: 1) portion size - I mean, look at that plate in the picture - that's actually quite enough food (in America we'd have twice as much on the plate, and it would be less than half as tasty; 2) better, fresher, and healthier ingredients - I saw statistics claiming that the average American diet is comprised of as much as 60% of highly processed foods, which the European average is around 12% - that's a huge difference; and 3) walking a lot more - Europeans tend to spend less time in their SUV, and instead more time travelling around on foot or public transportation - we're sort of an extreme example because we don't have a car (for the first time in fifty years, and this makes me very happy), and thus I, initially out of necessity, but now more out of desire to explore and sit by the sea, walk at least two miles a day.

Il Mio Tavolo Per La Mia Colazione

 I walk by the Barinello almost every morning on my walk along the Lungomare. Normally, I pass it by, not because it's not a wonderful place to grab a cup of coffee, but often it's packed and also because of my loyalty to La Sirenetta (although they're usually packed as well, but it was the first place we ever stopped for coffee here in Terrasini - and it was our wireless safe haven in the first month in the initial apartment). Yesterday, however, I looked into the patio as I was passing by and saw that it was empty - and this meant that the prized window seat was open - so I made a quick change of plans. The patio was wide open because of the bitter cold snap (meaning that it was 67), and all the Sicilians were inside and layered up. For once, coming from Vermont benefitted me.

Not a bad place for your morning caffe e cornetto.

Poshification

 When Kevin and I head off for our CFL Trips of Excellent, the one common theme is that our choices are not posh. We did eat a really nice steak dinner in Calgary on the Summer of 2025 Elks/Roughriders trip, but it wasn't that posh of a place in the great scheme of things (although the steak was amazing). However, on the Winnipeg leg of this last summer's trip, we had to poshify the trip because our friend Cyndi was along for the first section of the trip. I don't hold it against her, mainly because of her patrician roots are hard to overcome. Here are a couple pictures I snapped at the crazy nice restaurant where we ate in Winnipeg (and I've completely forgotten the name, which speaks to my yellow clay Hoosier hillbilly roots).

Now, it was a seriously good steak.

I think this very un-Scudder drink was meant to be an homage to the excellent Debi Zale, who is a huge fan of artist formerly known as Prince.

Assettati Redux

 I wanted to toss up a few more pictures from the Assettati restaurant here in Terrasini. Salvatore definitely has a winner there. The other day we ran into our friends Gregg and Richard, and we immediately started talking about how great Assettati is. We're now about a twenty minute walk away, but it's time well spent.

OK, so they're not Maine lobsters, but the Mediterranean produces its own delicious varieties.

There are actually other things on the menu (the pizza is great - and I haven't even gotten around to the burgers yet), but I find it hard not to order seafood every time (and I'm never disappointed).

The other night we arrived around 7:30 (about an hour too early to eat in Sicily, unless you're going to Pizzeria TUSA) and we just about had the place to ourselves. By the time we rolled out at 9:00 the line stretched down the street. It does your heart good when someone who cares deeply about what they're doing is appreciated.

Pizzeria TUSA

 We're settling into our new place, and that, of course, means having our favorite local restaurant. It has quickly become the Pizzeria TUSA, which is a beloved institution here in Terrasini. It was founded in 1940, which is, beyond the 86 years in business, an amazing thing to consider when you think that it was founded in Mussolini's Italy in the shadow of World War II. It's still going strong. It's one of the few places where you can show up at 6:00 and get fed without a sad look of pity at you being such a rube for wanting to eat that early. The pizza is absolutely fantastic, and the atmosphere it amazing. Friendly folks and great food - it's easy to see why they've been serving pizza for so long. Highly recommended.

Janet is loving her pistachio pizza.

Assettati

 One of the things that I was hoping would happen when we got settled was finding great little restaurants, away from the main tourist thoroughfare. We tend to not eat in the Piazza Duomo very often, although the vibe up there is pretty cool. One night we stumbled into a little place around the corner from our apartment, and about a hundred feet from La Sirenella. It's called Assettati (which is sort of Italian/Sicilian for "you sit"). As it turned it, it had just been purchased by a guy name Salvatore, who grew up here in Terrasini, but then twenty years working in and running restaurants in Philadelphia of all places. It may not have been our intention, but Assettati quickly has become our go-to place (and we'd eat there more if Janet was playing the responsible party and directing us to other restaurants or eating at home - which is clearly crazy talk). Anyway, it's absolutely wonderful, and I think we've eaten there six times (it will be seven in a couple hours) in the six weeks we've been here. Highly recommended.

Taco In A Bag

 Yesterday we made it back from the Manitoba/Saskatchewan CFL Doubleheader of Excellence. So, expect to see several posts detailing this DOE. I'll start with a quick post: the long-awaited Taco in a Bag. We came across this delicacy last year at the Calgary Stampeders game, but that was the day when, although it was June, the game was so cold - pouring rain, forty mph wind, temperature of 40F - that all the exterior food shops were closed almost immediately because of the cold. So, between seeing the Taco in a Bag on the way in - and halftime, when we stumbled up to the concourse to regain feeling in our hands - the TIAB shop closed down (and I don't blame them, because it was bitter and the folks didn't need to sit there freezing to death). In the meantime, however, the Taco in a Bag had reached mythic proportions in our popular imagination, so much so that when we researched new stadiums the first thing we would do is try to locate stands that sold the TIAB. Thankfully, the Winnipeg Blue Bombers delivered on this delicacy.

It's sort of like a Frito Pie, if you're fortunate enough to get that reference. 

 

Praia de Mira

 I'm way too busy to give my recent trips to Portugal and Canada the attention they deserve, so I'm just popping in now and then so that I don't completely lose the thread. When I left Coimbra I took a circuitous route back to Lisbon, wanting to see a little bit of the coast. Along the way I stopped at Praia de Mira, which felt like any pretty but slightly seedy beach town anywhere (which made it all the better). I stopped at the Restaurante Mar Azul for lunch, which proved to be a very good choice.

This supercharged me for the drive back to Lisbon.

Broken Eggs

 Here are a couple pictures that I snapped on last month's trip to Portugal. When I was in Coimbra there was a little café where I would hang out in the afternoon after my day's adventures. Normally I just nursed a liter of sangria while I read, but one day the timing was right for a meal.

I can heartily recommend the Broken Eggs w/ Alheira.

This is about the most classically Scudder picture you could imagine.

In Praise of KA

 My friend Kevin possesses many virtues, and not just his hidden love of the CFL. As I've proposed several times, no doubt, he's also a fantastic cook. Last week he whipped up some shrimp and grits with chorizo. Marcelle, Kevin, and I wolfed it down after my last final of the season, which was a wonderful way to end an utterly dreary semester.

It was, seriously, one of the best meals I've ever had in my entire life.

Gold Star

 And if I'm going to pass through the Midwest then, if at all possible, I need to swing by Cincinnati to see my old friend Dave. As always, we had a blast. We talked the long the first night that we missed closing time at Skyline Chili; fortunately, Gold Star was more dedicated to providing us with Chili Excellence.

I suppose I shouldn't post a story about heart issues and then include this picture a few slides later. Still, it was great chili - and much better company.

Magnum White Chocolate

 Some posts are rather important and thought-provoking (although never mine) and some fall more on the silly side of the spectrum. This definitely qualifies as one of the latter (even more than my usual nonsensical ramblings). One of our constant complaints, and by that I mean my constant complaints, is why it seems to be impossible to get Magnum White Chocolate ice cream bars in the US. They seem to be in every freezer in Portugal, which is another reason why I should move there, obviously.

I've changed my mind, this is of vital significance.

Squid Ink Pasta Yet Again

 I have nothing to add to this picture of shrimp and squid ink pasta other than I should be eating it right now. I was fulling out picture from my phone and came across this picture from last summer's trip to Portugal. OK, look, I know I haven't even had breakfast yet but there's no reason why this isn't a perfectly legitimate choice for café da manha.

JP and I just stumbled across crazy inexpensive tickets for Lisbon for next March, which means that a spring break trip may be on the schedule - and thus this dish may be in my near future.

Bife com Molho de Cafe

 Seriously, who wouldn't like steak with coffee sauce? Especially when it has an egg on top? I'll tell you who couldn't resist it: Fernando Pessoa. The Brasileria, one of Pessoa's haunts, was a very lovely place to sit and write or simply watch the world go by.

E batatas fritas.

Lamb Loin

 OK, as promised, the top five meal that we had at the converted convent in Evora, the Convento do Espinheiro. It was such a quintessential European meal: a smaller portion and heavy on quality as compared to quantity (I'm talking to you, America). It was lamb loin, which I had never had. Oh my good God.  It also featured migas, a very traditional southern Portuguese staple (you can find it in Spain as well). I tend to think of migas as something like goetta, that is, a way, initially, for poor folks to stretch the food. Migas is often made with stale bread, which is then jazzed up with garlic and olive oil - and then often pork meat drippings or asparagus or tomato or coriander.  We had first had migas at our first meal after visiting the Chapel of Bones (when Janet started looking for property), and that's when we learned that it was a staple in the region. The chef threw a fried egg on top because, well, just because. Truthfully, as you might expect, the migas can be a bit bland, but in this case the au jus was extraordinary.

This was my order on our official anniversary meal, although I think it will now be my official go-to meal every time we stay at the Convent. 

Lula grelhada

 I don't know, do you think I'm getting excited about next month's return trip to Portugal? This was at a restaurant in the main thoroughfare in Viana do Castelo.

Seriously, I may have a problem.

Eu sou um sujeito simples

 OK, I know I've posted this picture before, but, seriously, my mouth is watering. I'm a simple man: I could eat grilled octopus every day for lunch and be quite happy. Oh, and, of course, sangria. We'll be back in Portugal in no time now. This makes me way too happy.

Polvo grelhado e batatas.

Pao de Lo de Saojo

 Expect a ton of posts about Portugal to pop up within the next month. We're only about five weeks away from our return trip this summer and a combination of Portugal starting to dominate my thoughts (even more) and the need to make sense of the hundreds of pictures from last year's trip will finally inspire me to get organized. One of the great finds from the last trip was the little village of Saojo, tucked high up in the mountains of northern Portugal. It's even more isolated than Lindoso, but there's a lot more going on there. Here's the lovely local delicasy - the Pao-de-Lo de Saojo - a sponge cake.

Initially Janet and I were mortified that they had the temerity to place a grainery on the box, until we discovered that they actually have more graineries than Lindoso (more on that later).

A perfectly civilized way to spend an afternoon, even if it was 104 degrees in the shade.

Polvo a Lagareiro

 Seriously, how much grilled octopus can one man eat? I almost discovered the answer to that question this summer in Portugal.

Seriously, I think I could plop down to a meal of grilled octopus (polvo grelhado) and a pitcher of sangria just about every meal and be quite content with life.