Al Kutaini Restaurant

One of my best attributes as a traveller, and the one that always scores me points with folks overseas, is that I will truly eat anything anywhere (and, really, once you've had donkey wine there's not much excuse for turning your nose up at other dishes). Americans have the reputation of being finicky eaters overseas and rushing to the local Hard Rock Cafe. And as I always say - then why in the hell didn't you just stay home? On my recent trip to Salalah I had several great meals, and twice went to a local Pakistani restaurant called Al Kutaini. Since I had rented a car - and why I haven't been renting a car on earlier trip is beyond me - I had much more options for just exploring and bumming around. On my first night in Salalah I drove to the city centre and parked on 23 July Street, which is one of the main thoroughfares in town. After walking around for a couple blocks I decided to try the Pakistani place. When I arrived it was pretty deserted, and they seemed more than a bit surprised that I popped in for a bite. Salalah does get a lot of western tourists - I ran into many Europeans, especially Germans and Russians - but I guess most of them don't come to the Al Kutaini to eat, which is a pity because the food was both really good and very inexpensive. I think my dinner, including chicken handi and chicken dhaal and dessert cost around $4 (after eating a $15 cheeseburger for lunch at the Crowne Plaza). The treat for me was the waiter, who I immediately classified as the saddest waiter in the world, even though I'm sure he wasn't really that sad and seemed pleased that I had come in - he even brought out, with a certain understated flourish, some butter naan, which I had not even ordered. It was all fantastic, and at the end of the meal he gave me a key chain with the restaurant information on it - which I will truthfully always cherish. I came back two days later and it was much more crowded because it was a Friday night. I had a different waiter, but mine came up and came me a very quick and sheepish smile before passing me on to my replacement. If I ever come back to Salalah, and I will very soon, I will definitely be heading back to the Al Kutaini.