Tuesday, April 28, 2020

Shobak Castle 2020

Yes, I know I've posted pictures of Shobak Castle before, but it's become annual part of our Jordan trips and the students always love it - and it was no different this time.

The view looking up the hill, giving you some sense of why it took so long to conquer (it helped that they had a secret tunnel down to a water supply and out into a nearby valley, which I've shown in previous Shobak posts).

If you're going to take over a crusader castle you need to make up upgrades, including fitting in blocks with Arabic script.

Claire Yeash scouting around the castle.

For some reason I don't remember this particular passage before, which I think is pretty epic.

Missing Life in Aiken

Dave Mills sent this picture along the other day when, during a video chat, Linda and I found ourselves reminiscing about life in Aiken Hall. I think it was to make us feel better, although I think it just made Linda more nostalgic. Still, she does look happy. Someday, maybe not soon, soon all too soon, life will return to normal.

My response was: "Man, I do have a great ass, or maybe I am a great ass."

The Challenges of Social Distancing

As we all know at this unpleasant moment in time, it's a challenge to see loved ones when we'be barely supposed to leave the house. I had not seen my son since before I took off for India, and he lives in the same town. Last week, taking a circuitous route to the Food Shelf for volunteering, I swung by the boy's place for some much needed, but appropriately socially distanced, time with Gary and his girlfriend. Plus I got to watch his cat Odin hunting small beasties in the woods.

The boy, as usual, looking handsome.

And some old dude dropped by. I think, using Holmesian logic and by making calculations based on the time of day and length of the shadow, that we practiced sensible social distancing.

Taking a break at Food Shelf on Saturday morning, soaking in the sun, and enjoying each other's company, while still practicing social distancing.


Thursday, April 23, 2020

Sunset at Petra

Here's what could have been a great photograph if I actually had a great camera - and if I were actually a great photographer. As I sit and look at old photographs I can't believe that I never invested in a decent camera. I remember when I was in Abu Dhabi I went through something like four cameras, none of them particularly great, in the space of a couple months because of 1) smashy-smashy, 2) ill-timed big wave, 3) ill-placed sand while taking pictures in the desert, and 4) something else I've forgotten. Obviously, there's a reason why I didn't invest in a really nice camera.

I snapped this picture from the rooftop of a restaurant in Petra when I was visiting my friend Sally. Considering we're getting ready to blow into another Ramadan I guess the shape of the moon is fitting. However, in this case I keep coming back to the concept of sunset. I've already canceled next fall's Jordan trip, and I can't believe that my scheduled sabbatical spring semester of 2021 will actually come together for innumerable reasons. I'm certainly not getting any younger, and a pandemic rages. Will I ever make it back to Jordan? It's a painful thought that I may never see that beloved country again.

Still, if I never make it back to Jordan, or even overseas, it was a lovely run.

Wednesday, April 22, 2020

Lily of Arabia

And another picture that I cleared off my phone, this of my student Lily, reveling in the view. She yelled for me to come join her, which I did, before losing my balance and falling down the rock face while a total idiot. My knee still hasn't recovered.

Sure, I can barely walk, but it was a great view.

One Last Tea With Suleyman

I just stumbled across this picture the other day when I was cleaning some stuff off my phone. It's a shot I snapped on our last day in the Wadi Rum on the Thanksgiving trip. The students were grabbing one last cup of tea with our host Suleyman before heading out. You can tell that they're already sad, although not as sad as me.

And I'm especially sad now because I recently cancelled the 2020 Thanksgiving trip because of the COVID-19 pandemic. It may be safer then, but I'm not taking any chances with my students. Now, will I go? Hmmmm . . .


Tuesday, April 21, 2020

Ramadan 2020

I'm just posting the Ramadan times for Burlington for this coming Ramadan, which is fast approaching. Looks like I'll be setting the alarm for 3:30, at least for the beginning.



Monday, April 20, 2020

Amber Fort

On last year's trip to India we, unfortunately, only had the opportunity to see the Amber Fort in Jaipur from a distance, but we were so impressed that we were determined to right that wrong on this year's trip. Happily, we pulled it off, and it was an extraordinary experience. The only downside was that it was insanely packed, which seemed strange in an India falling into a global pandemic, but, hell, we were there. I snapped a couple pictures that would have been so wonderful, especially the one below of the woman in the saffron sari carrying the traditional broom behind her, which would have been so epic if not for the deluge of wanker tourists taking up space.

Yes, you could take a jeep up to the Amber Fort, although I don't know why you would.

The first, and largest, of the four courtyards.

You can just make out the massive walls on the far hills that provided the first line of defense.

The garden in the lake.

This should be the best picture I ever took . . .

So many lovely little odd corners.

A main area where you could meet the noble and state your case.




The Sheesh Mahal, or Hall of Mirrors.



My student Sara shamelessly photobombing my picture.





The hallway in the harem in the highest courtyard. Game of Thrones indeed . . .

Saturday, April 18, 2020

Scudder Mania

I suppose if you've been somewhere for twenty years - and you've traveled as much as I have - and you have such an odd relationship with your students as I have - it makes sense that you get asked to do things like provide personal questions for a trivia competition. The Office of International Education was trying to raise funds for student scholarships, so I was happy to do so, even if it also made me seem like an even bigger self-absorbed wanker than I am (which is saying a lot). Still, it was fun, and the students seemed to have a good time.

Are you ready? As my son would propose, "No, you're not ready."

Answer: Sana'a, Yemen

Answer: London, United Kingdom

Answer: Jordan (duh)

Answer: United Arab Emirates

Answer: Kasgar, China

Answer: Donkey Penis Wine

Answer: United Arab Emirates

Answer: Reykjavik, Iceland

Answer: Dubai, United Arab Emirates

Answer: Watching the Bolshoi Ballet in Moscow, Russia (although I have)

Answer: It's a trick question, I've had strange djinn-related events in all of them

Answer: Five days in Fez, Morocco

Take That, Stupid Pandemic

I snapped this picture on the recent India trip. It was hanging on the wall outside of a great little restaurant where we ate one afternoon. It's a combination of peppers, a lemon and charcoal, designed to ward off the evil juju. My excellent friend Steve could speak much more eloquently about this than I could, obviously. The inclusion of charcoal was a new one, at least for me, but it seemed to be a common ingredient in similar spiritual devices across India.

I'm assuming that it's lingering potency is what kept us safe on the rather insane trip home.

Discography - Joy or Friendship or Community

OK, we've reached the second in our brief Pandemic-inspired Discography series, not songs about the disease itself (although doubtless it will inspire many songs and movies and novels in the near future) but rather our responses to the Great Isolation. A couple weeks ago we contributed songs related to isolation or sadness or loneliness,and this week we have the happier chore- although as a couple of us opined, the more difficult challenge - of songs about community or joy or friendship; because, well, there will eventually be another side to this nightmare.


Dave Kelley

"Land of Hope and Dreams"  Bruce Springsteen

There are so many musical artists from so many areas of music that I love dearly.  That being said, Bruce will always be my go to go to musician.  His concerts are always communal experiences shared between the band and the audience, so I wanted to use a live performance of this song.  Using the great "People Get Ready" from Curtis Mayfield as his inspiration, Bruce wrote a timeless piece about our shared experiences as human beings.  To quote Jason Isbell, "we are all carrying the same burden and sharing the same fate."  Corona boredom tempts me to blather on endlessly, but I'll just Bruce and the mighty E Street Band preach instead.


Kathy Seiler


I picked this song by Jill Scott, who as we all know, is a favorite artist of mine. The song is really simple. Just a description of the family members and interactions among them seen at a family reunion, warts and all. The chorus is "What can you say... it's family." 


Both immediate and extended family are a unique community with which we all have some degree of familiarity. For all the family drama we all endure on a regular basis, I miss many of my family members with an intensity I haven't experienced since starting college. The distancing we must do now makes me realize that for all the complaining I may do about them, it's still pretty great to be with people who share my DNA.

Phil Seiler

"We've been waiting so long. We've been waiting so long. We've been waiting for the sun to rise and shine. Shining still. Give us the will. Can you hear me? The sound of my voice. I am here to tell you, I have made my choice. I've been listening, to what's been going down. There's just too much talk and gossip going 'round. You may think that I'm a fool, but I know the answer. Words become a tool. Anyone can use them. Take the golden rule as the best example. Eyes that have seen, will know what I mean."

And so begins Todd Rundgren's epic track, Just One Victory. So yes, I am a Todd head and I really resisted posting this track for this topic because it seemed so obvious. But it is just so on point, I can't not.

We do need just one victory. We do need each other if we want to win. We have been waiting so fucking long.

And here is an alternate version for the a capella lovers from our well endowed neighbors to the south, Middlebury College:

It's a message and melody that resonates across the divides. We are in this together.


We are on our way.


Mike Kelly

Perfect Day - Andrew Bird and Matt Berninger (Lou Reed Cover) 


Remember when you could go and do fun stuff with your friends like get drunk in the park and watch movies?  That's what this song is about.  While there's well-placed speculation that the "you" that Lou Reed gets to spend the day with is actually heroin, for the sake of the discography, let's just take the old Velvet Underground singer at his word when he said in an interview shortly before he died, "This song is pretty straightforward- it's about a day when I was thinking about what I want to do with my girlfriend."  Back when, you know, things were open.  Miss you all. 


Alice Neiley

Not surprisingly, at least for me, this week's song choice was harder. Not that there aren't a million wonderful songs about friendship, togetherness, etc., but I've been in a cranky mood on and off for the past week (not being able to go to the library and stare at books when I need a break is getting to me -- I know, first world problems), so dark, sad, isolation music comes to mind faster. That said, I found "Travel in Time" by a sort of obscure group called Marching Band about 10 years ago, and fell in love with it immediately. It's sort of...magical, about being welcomed into a group of people, or welcoming someone into a group, about telling stories, writing songs, trading dreams and ideas. My favorite line has always been "we're so happy/so happy to meet you 'cause you sparkle".  It's about connection, plus, it's up beat with a catchy melody, but not in an annoying way (an essential distinction in these crazy times). And yes, I know this is my shortest post EVER, but I think for once I'll let the song speak for itself, and if everyone is truly honest with their sentimental selves, this tune might win the week. Oh. Who am I kidding? Junior faculty never wins ;). 


Gary Scudder

First Aid Kit, Emmylou 

I was just discussing with the esteemed Phil Seiler the other day the challenge we both felt in regards to picking happier songs, as compared to the seemingly endless number of cripplingly sad songs that one would expect from one of the world's biggest Neil Young fans. Nevertheless, I am happy with my choice this week, although it's certainly in most ways an unusual one. I'm not certain how I stumbled across First Aid Kit, and it seems like a group that Dave Wallace or Gary Beatrice or Phil Seiler probably shared with me (for that matter, this song may have been featured before). They're two sisters from Sweden who have put out several albums, all of them quite good. This song is dedicated to friendship and the joy of singing with others, or, for that matter, just spending time with others. This particular version is a recording of them singing it in front of Emmylou Harris, and I can't watch it without sobbing. I made a point to an ex-student on Twitter the other day the pandemic and the Great Isolation has left me feeling much like I did after 9/11 in that my emotional thermostat is broken and I find myself crying an awful lot. However, I don't think I'm crying (much) because I'm sad and lonely, although I'm both, but instead the simple beauty of life just destroys me.


Thursday, April 16, 2020

Bleak House and Bleak Times

Lately I've been running online chats with friends of mine, mainly to distract everyone from the general misery of the pandemic. One of them is simply entitled So, What Are You Reading?, which we do every two weeks, and it is very free form and gives people the opportunity to jump in or just listen. When we ran our first one it was very apparent that folks were either focusing on true almost apocalyptic readings or the purist escapism, which, of course, makes perfect sense. I was thinking about today as I was out on my daily walk. I've been listening to Charles Dickens' Bleak House on Audible. Now, I've read Bleak House two or three different times over the decades, but I've never listened it before. Truthfully, it's been a pleasure, far beyond the virtue of  merely knocking off thirty-seven hours of isolation. There are times when I actually found myself bent over in laughter at some lovely turn of phrase or tomfoolery. Today, however, I found myself crying, although not from laughter, and it reminded me of what an extraordinary novel Bleak House is. I was working my way through Chapter XXXI, "Nurse and Patient," which is a combination of socially conscious, chilling, heart-warming and heart-breaking all at the same time, in that way that only Dickens is. It's the chapter where the poor orphan boy Joe, Charley (Esther's maid), and Esther herself all get sick with a contagion. I remember it well, but this time it was a couple of paragraphs at the beginning where Dickens set everything up. Esther and Charley are on their way to the brick-worker hovel where they know that Joe has ended up. Dickens tells us:

  It was a cold, wild night, and the trees shuddered in the wind. The rain had been thick and heavy all day, and with little intermission for many days. None was falling just then, however. The sky had partly cleared, but was very gloomy even above us, where a few stars were shining. In the north and northwest, where the sun had set three hours before, there was a pale dead light both beautiful and awful; and into it long sullen lines of cloud waved up like a sea stricken immovable as it was heaving. Towards London a lurid glare overhung the whole dark waste, and the contrast between these two lights, and the fancy which the redder light engendered of an unearthly fire, gleaming on all the unseen buildings of the city and on all the faces of its many thousands of wondering inhabitants, was as solemn as might be.
  I had no thought that night, none, I am quite sure of, what was soon to happen to me. But I have always remembered since that when we had stopped at the garden gate to look up at the sky, and when we went upon our way, I had for a moment an undefinable impression of myself as being something different from what I then was. I know it was then and there that I had it. I have ever since connected the feeling with that spot and time and with everything associated with that spot and time, to the distant voices in the town, the barking of a dog, and the sound of wheels coming down the miry hill.

I found this passage devastating today, and not simply because it foretells so much of what is getting ready to break in the novel. It also seemed to bring the two opposite ends of the reading spectrum, the apocalyptic and the escapist together in one novel. Finally, it made me think that after we've all been sick, and we'll all be sick, we won't remember when we were sick, or even that happy moment when/if we've survived, but instead we're remember clearly the moment before the world changed. We already remember what we were doing before the Great Isolation began, but that will pale in comparison to our remembrance of when we were well.




Taj Mahal 2020 - Morning

As I'm wont to opine, I've led a strange life. From a person who didn't have a passport until I was forty-two, I've now reached the point where I'm one of those guys who has to answer questions with lines like, "No, I don't know how many times I've been to Jordan" or "It was on one of the times I walked through the siq at Petra, but I don't know which one" or "Truthfully, the best time to see the Taj is in the morning." Wow, what a wanker. Still, the best time to see the Taj is in the morning. On this recent trip to India, which was last month but now seems years ago as we work our way through the Great Isolation, I was fortunate to visit the Taj Mahal for, I think, the fifth time. However, I had never visited it in the early morning, although I had always wanted to do so. We rallied the students very early, which led to not too much grousing, and once they arrive they were wonderfully happy to be there. I envied them and in some ways pitied them, because it was the most beautiful I'd ever seen the Taj, but I also knew if they ever came back and managed to make if there midday they would not think it as beautiful. The light was ethereal and I don't think I took a bad picture, or could take a bad picture. The beauty was almost humbling.

A shot as we walked in. I've never seen the Taj in that light, and in that amount of detail. It's always beautiful, but definitely beautiful in different ways. Something about this time of day provided much more detail.

Turning back to see the entrance gate. You can just get a sense of the extraordinary sunrise.

Looking back towards the entry gate, about halfway out to the Taj itself.

Looking over a reflecting pond. I wish I could claim that I did something amazing with my camera to get those colors, but it was just my phone.


Another shot from the same spot. The light was otherworldly.

A picture I snapped of Mellissa, Jorja and Laney, which looks photoshopped.

A closer shot of the Taj, featuring a lovely reflection. I wonder how many trillion pictures have been taken of the Taj from this spot?

A view from the side of the Taj, taken from in front of the mosque.

I took a number of pictures from inside the mosque, looking out at the Taj itself. Every one of them was indescribably beautiful.

And another one. I'm not certain which one I'm going to print off.

Jess and Aaron from my traditional favorite angle for snapping pictures of the Taj Mahal.

Front row: Laney, Jorja, Chelsey, Jess, Brittany
Second row: Morgan, Mellissa, Chris, Ana
Back row: Steve, Aidan, Aaron, Wes, Blade, Sara, some old dude, Alex, Caitlyn